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The Water Margin
On the corner of Donegall Pass and the Ormeau Road is this magnificent building. Taken at face value this ancient motif with the initials PCDP in the centre is probably indicative of the Presbyterian Church of Donegall Pass. Therefore, historically speaking of course, this was a former Presbyterian Church. There’s few details about its past and its present owners reveal little either. One interesting fact though, is that the original Bible from this church is currently in the St Mary Magdalene Church just up the street from it – another Presbyterian Church.
Presently The Water Margin Restaurant, this is reputedly Ireland’s largest Chinese. Diners need for nothing since a 24 page menu will no doubt cater to just about anyone’s taste buds. As often the case with foreign restaurants if the nationals of that country are seen to eat in them then it must obviously be good. And this is certainly the case here. The Chinese community of Belfast frequent The Water Margin not to mention their normal crowds of local customers.
This private room here even offers that Chinese of all Chinese imports: karaoke. Guests in these adjoining rooms have that touch more freedom to enjoy the whole experience with plenty of humour.
It was not all plain sailing though as the Chinese community in this area have been subjected to racial discrimination in the past. When Edmund Lau, owner of the Sun Kee Chinese Restaurant, opened this restaurant under The Water Margin Restaurant Group, it was hardly to a rapturous reception.
On the more cultural aspects of the restaurant are the obvious decorative elements like the stain glass windows and huge vases with painted mythological beasts and dragons. When the building was restored many years ago there was a deliberate effort to expose the original roof trusses and columns. Painted purple now against a white background they certainly highlight the original character of this former church that would have seen a serious drop in parishioners around the 1960s.
Finally, as a reflection of their extensive menu which reads like a real Chinese experience: crispy duck feet, frogs legs, shark's fin and meat soup dumplings, steamed chicken's feet, fish head in black bean sauce and fried eel with salt and chilli to name but a few, The Bridgestone Awards voted The Water Margin the Best In Ireland restaurant in 2004 and 2005.
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